ATLANTA has reinvented itself again.
When the city last grabbed the national spotlight as host of the 1996 Summer Olympics, it had transformed itself into a pedestrian-friendly metropolis in full party mode. Now, it has re-emerged as a tourist destination with a surprising child-oriented focus.
The city is still a place rich with the echoes of history, the Civil War and the civil rights movement. But it’s also a place that offers the teen-and-younger set — on a recent visit, my brood included my son, then 14, and my daughter, then 7 — many attractions geared especially for them, beginning with the $200 million-plus Georgia Aquarium, called the world’s largest, that opened in late 2005.
With a metro-area population of five million, Atlanta is a real city, one that may have more than its share of urban woes (traffic, crime), but one that also has bohemian neighborhoods that make for funky exploration and ethnic communities with lively shopping and dining. If your kids are old enough to appreciate what a great metropolitan center has to offer, they’ll love Atlanta all the more.
The Big Stuff to See
Even though the inaugural year hoopla has passed, the Georgia Aquarium (225 Baker Street, 404-581-4000; www.georgia aquarium.org) remains the top tourist destination, welcoming more than three million visitors in 2006. And for good reason: Though the largely indoor attraction can’t entirely compare with the child-friendly outdoor places like Sea World with its high-jumping whales and dolphins, it offers a solid half-day’s entertainment, with a little bit of education thrown into the mix.
Divided into five main themed areas that touch upon aquatic life, both mammals and fish of different kinds, the aquarium is best known for the whale sharks that call the Ocean Voyager section home. Children and adults alike will marvel not only at their size, but also at how they are displayed: in an indoor tank that is up to 30 feet deep. But my children were equally captivated by the penguin exhibit in the Cold Water Quest area. My daughter especially liked standing in an enclosed tube right next to the curious-looking aquatic birds.
A visit to the Georgia Aquarium also provides a good excuse to explore the adjoining Centennial Olympic Park (265 Park Avenue West NW, 404-222-7275; www.centennial park.com), an urban green space that was built in conjunction with the 1996 Olympics. (It was the site of the deadly bombing that occurred during the Games.) The park is more a place to unwind than anything else, but it does have exhibits that honor the athletes and the city leaders behind the Olympics events.
Also scheduled to open in May next to the aquarium is the New World of Coca-Cola, a museum about Atlanta’s most famous corporation. But the museum, run by Coca-Cola, will remain at its original location (55 Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, 404-676-5151, www.worldofcoca-cola.com) through April 7. If you visit, arrive thirsty; there’s a tasting room that allows you to sample a variety of Coke products, including some drinks sold abroad that would be hard to find elsewhere in the United States.
On a more historical note are two significant attractions: the Martin Luther King Jr. National Historic Site (450 Auburn Avenue NE, 404-331-5190; www.nps.gov/malu) and the Atlanta Cyclorama (800 Cherokee Avenue SE in Grant Park, 404-658-7625). The former offers an overview of King and his leadership in the civil rights movement. You can tour King’s birthplace and the church where he preached (Ebenezer Baptist); the visitor center also includes exhibits about King’s life and legacy.
End your stay by spending a few minutes at King’s tomb, which provides a perfect, peaceful opportunity for reflection and discussion with your children.
The Atlanta Cyclorama is a work of art and a history lesson about the Civil War rolled into one. True to its name, the Cyclorama, dating from 1893, is a painting in the round (with a diorama added in 1936, giving the work an even greater three-dimensional effect) that depicts the Battle of Atlanta on July 22, 1864. You experience it in a rotating theater, seeing the pivotal day unfold from a variety of vantage points. Even in the age of digital entertainment, it’s an effective presentation.
Culture
Like any major city, Atlanta has more than its share of cultural offerings and attractions, from the High Museum of Art (1280 Peachtree Street NE, 404-733-4444, www.high.org), which is host to an exhibit of works on loan from the Louvre through 2009, to the historic Fox Theatre (660 Peachtree Street NE, 404-881-2100; www.foxtheatre.org), a grand movie palace dating from 1929 that is now home to everything from ballet to Broadway fare.
But another option, particularly if you’re traveling with children and your time is limited, is the Center of Puppetry Arts (1404 Spring Street NW, 404-873-3391, www.puppet.org). Not only does the 29-year-old center offer an array of shows — some geared for adults, some for kids — it also has a worthwhile museum devoted to the history and craft of puppet-making. My daughter enjoyed the brief matinee program she attended, but got a bigger kick because it was followed by a make-your-own-puppet session, led by the center’s helpful staff.
Alternative Atlanta
If you’ve got a teen who’s into anything and everything alternative, a stroll through Atlanta’s Little Five Points neighborhood is a must. (My son remarked that it reminded him more of the scene depicted in “Rent” than the increasingly gentrified East Village neighborhood upon which the show-turned-film is based.) Make sure to stop by Junkman’s Daughter (464 Moreland Avenue NE; 404-577-3188), a kitsch emporium (or “alternative superstore,” as some fans describe it) that sells everything from vintage rock T-shirts to Sigmund Freud action dolls.
Where to Eat
If your children’s preferred diet consists of fast food and more fast food, take them to a place that at least does it with style and a sense of history. For 79 years, the Varsity chain has been turning out chili dogs, onion rings, fried pies and a part-dessert-part beverage concoction simply known as a Frosted Orange. Among the six locations, the downtown one (61 North Avenue, 404-881-1706; {cq}www.thevarsity.com) is not only the most convenient, it’s also the most impressive, with seating for up to 800. The restaurant staff members boast that on a busy day it can go through enough hot dogs to extend two miles.
For sit-down fare with more of a Southern spirit, Mary Mac’s Tea Room (224 Ponce de Leon Avenue NE, 404-876-1800, www.marymacs.com), an Atlanta favorite since 1945, is a good bet. Opt for the Southern Special, an all-you-can eat spread of fried and baked chicken, country fried steak, an assortment of sides (and remember, in the South, mac ’n’ cheese counts as a veggie) and a dessert of your choice (go for the banana pudding); the special runs $16.95, or $12.50 for children 10 and under.
Atlanta is home to many ethnic communities; drive the stretch of road known as Buford Highway and you’ll come across everything from Mexican to Korean shopping and dining options. On our visit, my family decided on Korean — namely, Han Il Kwan (5458 Buford Highway, 770-457-3217), which specializes in barbecue of the do-it-yourself sort. Servers bring the grill and meat to your table — the classic Korean dish is bulgogi (marinated beef) — and then you take over. Children are likely to appreciate it as the cross-cultural culinary adventure it is.
Where to Stay
If money is no object, the ritziest option in downtown Atlanta is, well, the Ritz-Carlton Atlanta (181 Peachtree Street NE, 404-659-0400, www.ritzcarlton.com It has more than 400 rooms, is a short walk from the Georgia Aquarium, and offers a Family Aquarium Package, starting at $309 a night, that includes accommodations, breakfast and admission for up to four people.
On the other hand, if you’re looking to stay slightly away from downtown, and you want a room that offers more apartment-style amenities, there are two Marriott Residence Inns in the Midtown neighborhood (1365 Peachtree Street, 404-745-1000; {cq}www.marriott.com; 1041 West Peachtree Street; 404-872-8885; {cq}{cq}adding point to web address. gtwww.marriott.com). I’ve always found the chain to be family friendly, with rooms that have full kitchens (hot breakfasts are also included). Both hotels are offering a variety of packages, including one tied to the High Museum’s Louvre exhibit; package rates begin at $149 per night.
Finally, it’s not too hard to land a short-term condo rental in Atlanta. That’s what my family did, looking at listings on vacation-rental Web sites before finding a suitable (though somewhat dowdy) one-bedroom downtown apartment through www.vrbo.com for $119 a night.
